Wookiee Hut Cuisine presents:
S. Dynasty
Lexington Avenue & 48th Street, New York, NY
212-355-1200

Review by Diana DeRiggs

I was told to go to a business dinner meeting. Remember the "expense account" meals from the '80s and '90s? I only remember them from movies and stuff -- businesses don't do that anymore because it became harder to justify those expenses under new tax laws, plus business is not quite the same as it was then. So I was surprised, but also anxious about what could possibly entail a "business dinner meeting" in 2003.

The answer was a buffet -- it wasn't the one-on-one business meeting I expected, but rather a business gathering to "exchange ideas" ... whatever. So would this evening me a complete wash, socially as well as gastronomically?

Thank goodness this shindig took place at S. Dynasty ("Szechuan & Hunan Style Chinese Restaurant"), located on the mezzanine level of the Hotel Radisson in midtown Manhattan. The buffet was well serviced; plates were cleared at a quick rate, so there was none of the clutter and debris so common in many buffet evenings. Like Japanese Noh theater, the black-clad waiters moved quickly and invisibly.

The food was pretty good -- not quite really Chinese, but more Americanized versions of popular Chinese dishes, without being totally hokey. For instance, the potsticker dumplings were quite authentic, but the filling was mostly meat. Tender beef in the classic Beef with Broccoli dish were more like thin cubes of beef, rather than the traditional shaved-thin slices normally used. The spicing of the lomein noodles were quieter than the usual salty-sauced dish. It was, as I said, good anyway.

Total roster of dishes: satay beef on a stick, crispy eggrolls, pan-fried dumplings, shrimp toast balls (yum -- they were all gone on my second pass), roast pork with cabbage stirfry, beef with broccoli, lomein, kin-dofu (almond gelatine with fruit cocktail -- tastes much better than its sounds!). It was straightforward, simple and good. I lucked out! I hope the rest of my business meals are more like this one.


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