Wookiee Hut Cuisine presents:
Malony & Porcelli
Review by susu

The atmosphere is "male" and "steakhouse" and "expensive" -- in other words, perfect place for a date if you're a certain kind of girl!

But the food is delicious, the service professional and the waiters cute. The chairs are comfortable and there was always enough wine and water. There was really only one steak offered, a very nice rib/shell steak one night, a classic chateaubriand another. The menu on various nights also included rack of lamb, a beef stew, and something called the crackling pork shank: the bottom half of a young pig's leg, roasted complete with crackling skin. It was huge, could have easily fed four, and featured jalopeño apple sauce and red German-style cabbage. There were also several types of fish and shellfish, roast chicken, duck, and other viands. They don't offer more than six a night, and every dish is worth its presentation.

The bread basket alone was worth going for. Chef David Burke, in his original Park Avenue Café, believed in food as pun, or food as spectacle (at the very least, food as entertainment). He still does, serving corn sticks, big, big sheets of ragged-edged seeded flatbread, superlative rolls (with and without raisins, including one made from pretzel dough!), and doesn't stint on the sweet butter. (Family secret: my parents tried to marry me off to Burke; I had to point out that he was already married, with three kids!, to dissuade them from trying so hard!)

On a subsequent trip, we got the pork shank again, and the veal chop -- which we ended up taking home. Appetizers were a goat cheese artichoke thin-crust pizza and tuna and salmon napolean tartare. The time before, the pizza was five field mushrooms with focaccia, and Caesar salad with lemon confit. Frankly, just appetizers would have been great. More was just gorging .... ah well, live and learn. Leftovers were brilliant as the next day's breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Dessert was astounding: tiny ice cream sandwiches and a coconut layer cake; also piña colada crème brulée and "drunken doughnuts" with spiked preserves. I've had Burke's apple tarte, milk chocolate crème brulée, sorbets, ice creams, etc. All are excellent.

A lot of my curves and bumps were acquired at Malony & Porcelli. Now you know my secret!


Disclaimer: The opinions and observations noted are the property of the author. Neither Wookieehut nor any associates makes any claims or lucre from the posting of this report or review. Enjoy!